Problem: The dummy tile and the masonry crown is cracked and not sealed. This is allowing water to enter the chimney and cause damage over time to the chimney, drywall and framing in the house.
Fix: Break off the dummy tile completely. Remove all of the loose concrete replace with fiberglass infused mortar. Once that is dry I coat the whole top of the chimney crown with a product called crown coat which has a 15 year warranty.
Fix: Break off the dummy tile completely. Remove all of the loose concrete replace with fiberglass infused mortar. Once that is dry I coat the whole top of the chimney crown with a product called crown coat which has a 15 year warranty.
This is a side view of the same chimney.
Problem: Due to having a cracked crown, water has destroyed the mortar between the stone now allowing water entry into the house. After freeze and thaw in the winter this chimney will get much worse.
Fix: I would fix this after the crown is sealed. Grind out all of the loose mortar. Hose off loose debris. Use a mortar gun to fill in all of the missing mortar. Then Strike the joints to bring the butter to the surface. This makes a hard crust on the out side of joints.
Problem: Due to having a cracked crown, water has destroyed the mortar between the stone now allowing water entry into the house. After freeze and thaw in the winter this chimney will get much worse.
Fix: I would fix this after the crown is sealed. Grind out all of the loose mortar. Hose off loose debris. Use a mortar gun to fill in all of the missing mortar. Then Strike the joints to bring the butter to the surface. This makes a hard crust on the out side of joints.
Problems: The furnace and water heater are venting out of the 5" B-vent. This has no cap to keep animals from crawling in and blocking the dangerous carbon monoxide fumes from venting out of the house. Also between the clay tile and the B-vent liner it should have a top plate to keep out water and animals. Water can destroy the chimney from the inside out. The crown is also cracked allowing water entry.
Fix: Putt a sealed top plate on and then a proper B-vent cap on furnace flu. Then crown coat the crown.
Fix: Putt a sealed top plate on and then a proper B-vent cap on furnace flu. Then crown coat the crown.
Problem: This chimney has a screen over the fire place flu. Most people think this is ok. It's not! Water can still get in. Water will combine with the creosote and make an acid. This acidic compound will eat the chimney mortar from the inside and makes the chimney unable to contain combustion within the chimney. You can start your house on fire.
To fix: You must put the properly sized stainless steal cap on in place of the screen.
To fix: You must put the properly sized stainless steal cap on in place of the screen.
Problem: This a unlined chimney. One of the most expensive problems to fix. Water has been getting into this chimney for years which has eaten away a lot of the mortar joints between the bricks. If these people were to have a fire the heat can transfer through the holes and even the brick and start the house on fire. It is very unsafe and not recommended to use a chimney without a line to contain combustion in the chimney.
Fix: A few ways to fix this. If these people wanted to keep an open fireplace look. I would have to use a round stainless steal liner 1/12 of the fire box opening size. Or a rectangle 1/10 of the fire box opening size. I would use a fire proof insulation wrap around the liner. If there is not enough room I would use a pored insulation. I then have to attach a top plate to the liner and seal. Next I break out the old damper and climb in the chimney to parge the smoke chamber up to the newly dropped liner. To replace the old damper I install a top sealing damper at the top of the chimney attached to a cable running to the fire box where I attach a handle to open and close the flu.
I recommend instead of all that. Is a Wood or gas fireplace insert which is a sealed system and will actually put heat into your home rather than take it away. I would still have to run a liner but it would be much smaller diameter liner because the opening on the insert is much smaller.
Fix: A few ways to fix this. If these people wanted to keep an open fireplace look. I would have to use a round stainless steal liner 1/12 of the fire box opening size. Or a rectangle 1/10 of the fire box opening size. I would use a fire proof insulation wrap around the liner. If there is not enough room I would use a pored insulation. I then have to attach a top plate to the liner and seal. Next I break out the old damper and climb in the chimney to parge the smoke chamber up to the newly dropped liner. To replace the old damper I install a top sealing damper at the top of the chimney attached to a cable running to the fire box where I attach a handle to open and close the flu.
I recommend instead of all that. Is a Wood or gas fireplace insert which is a sealed system and will actually put heat into your home rather than take it away. I would still have to run a liner but it would be much smaller diameter liner because the opening on the insert is much smaller.
Problem: This is the top of the chimney furnace flu. It has no sealed top plate around furnace flu. If the house has any sort of negative air pressure it will suck carbon monoxide back into the house.
Fix: Seal a top plate around the flu.
Fix: Seal a top plate around the flu.
Problem: Old step flashing is not properly sealed. This is allowing water to damage the roof.
Fix: Secure step flashing to brick with masonry anchors. Then duct tape a clean straight line on the roof and the chimney. I use a product called flash seal. Brush it on lay fiberglass mesh over it and put another coat on top of that. It has a seven year warranty.
Fix: Secure step flashing to brick with masonry anchors. Then duct tape a clean straight line on the roof and the chimney. I use a product called flash seal. Brush it on lay fiberglass mesh over it and put another coat on top of that. It has a seven year warranty.
